This was a do or die day, almost literally for I had to get past the mighty Baranco Wall to keep climbing. They call it the “Breakfast Wall”—not because it’s easy, but because you tackle it right after eating, with your heart in your throat and your boots on the rocks. Day 5 on the Lemosho Trail began at Baranco Camp (12,796′, 3900m), standing in the shadow of the mighty Baranco Wall. For days, I had heard it spoken about in hushed tones—nicknamed the “Wall of Death”—and now it loomed before me like a final exam in stone. Would I pass this most difficult test yet or fail on Day 5 of the climb?
This was a short day on paper—just 3 miles, or about 5 kilometers—but as I’ve learned on this mountain, “short” often means “steep, slow, and unforgiving.” The Baranco Wall rose nearly 900 feet straight up from camp. Whoa Nellie! It was not technical climbing, but it demanded my full focus, careful footing, and sometimes all fours. There were sections where I had to hug the rock and shimmy across narrow ledges, including the infamous “Kissing Rock,” where you lean in—whether you like it or not.
Ah, the Kissing Rock. You don’t just lean in—you press your entire body against it as you slide around a narrow corner with nothing but air on the other side. It’s both humorous and humbling. There’s no room for pride or panic—only trust in your guide, your gear, and your grip. I gave the rock a literal kiss as I slid around it, part respect, part relief, and part gratitude for still being upright. That moment captured the spirit of the climb—equal parts courage, absurdity, and awe.
Failure here would have meant the end of my summit attempt. There’s no helicopter rescue, no alternative path. This was the way. Step by step, breath by breath, I made my way up. Pole, pole! And when I reached the top, the sense of relief was as immense as the view. Below me lay the Baranco Valley, now conquered, and ahead, the glaciers and ridges of Kibo rising ever closer.
From there, we hiked through stunning glacial valleys, hemmed in by towering cliffs and speckled with alien-looking groundsels and ever-present mist. It was hauntingly beautiful—both desolate and alive. We eventually reached Karanga Camp at 13,108′ (3995m), where the altitude was almost the same as our starting point, but we had gained so much more than elevation.
This was another strong acclimatization day, a necessary step before the final push. The climb was more than half over. But the hardest part—the summit bid—still lay ahead. For today, I let myself feel grateful: I had faced the Wall, and I had climbed it.
#ChasingTheLeopard #KilimanjaroDay5 #BarancoWall #KissingTheRock #StrattonClimbs #FartherTogether #LemoshoRoute #KilimanjaroAdventure #SummitInSight
Leave a Reply