Today began beneath a soft morning light at Lanercost Priory, a place I’ll admit I knew little about before stepping onto its grounds. The priory stands in atmospheric splendor – the church itself minimalist inside but outside it’s roofless ruined nave wide- open to the sky like a wound, stone walls bearing the marks of centuries, and a quiet graveyard where lichen-covered headstones lean with the weight oftime. Dedicated to Mary Magdalene, it’s a place layered with devotion and history.
Founded in the 12th century, Lanercost endured wars, plundering, and royal intrusion. In fact, Edward I of England made this his base in 1306–07, ruling the kingdom from here for six months while waging war against Scotland—though illness kept him within these walls for much of that time. That human vulnerability, set against the priory’s enduring presence, somehow made it feel even more poignant.
From there, our trek rejoined Hadrian’s Wall and carried us through some of the most remarkable continuous stretches of surviving Roman fortifications. The wall here is not just a line of stone—it’s a living scar on the land, rising and falling with the undulating hills. We passed signal towers—silent sentinels from a time when quick messages traveled faster on horseback than any letter or phone call could today.
Our path led to Birdoswald Roman Fort, its commanding position overlooking the River Irthing a reminder of how strategic this frontier was. Just beyond lay Willowford Bridge, where the remains of the Roman bridge abutments still reach toward the water, a stone memory of empire. The walk from there to Poltross Burn Milecastle was long but deeply satisfying—mile after mile alongside the ancient wall, feeling the weight of history in each footstep.
From Poltross, we caught a public bus back to Haltwhistle Manor House, our home base. But the day wasn’t over—we set out again for an afternoon hike through Haltwhistle Burn, following the trail into a forested gorge where the river’s song accompanied us. The shade of the trees and the rush of water felt like nature’s balm after the open, windswept wall walk.
That evening, we gathered in the manor’s dining room, the day’s adventures still fresh on our tongues. Over clinking glasses and the low hum of conversation, we traded travel stories from other corners of the world. My choice for dinner was a hearty steak and ale pie with a pint—a fitting end to a day that blended history, landscape, and camaraderie in perfect measure.
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