Today was sublime.
I caught an early train from Hexham to Newcastle, feeling that bittersweet mix of excitement and closure that comes at the end of a long journey. I’d said my goodbyes to my group and now I headed out on my own for the final stretch.
After checking into the stylish Dakota Hotel and dropping my bags, I made my way to Wallsend—Segedunum—the final outpost of Hadrian’s Wall. The End of Empire. The ultimate destination of my trip.
Standing there, I thought of all the Roman soldiers who once gazed north, guarding the frontier of their world. I visted the viewing tower from where I had a clear panoramic view of this ancient site. Honestly there isn’t much left of the fort but outlines of the buildings that stood here two thousand years ago. But the highlight was the remaining part of the wall just across the street from the site with a reconstruction next to it of what the wall may have looked like. It was impressive indeed about 10 feet wide and 18 feet tall.
But this day wasn’t just about endings—it was about celebration. On a wonderful tip from Eleanor at the hotel, I continued to Tynemouth, to a little place on the sand T Sir Edward’s Bay – Riley’s Fish Shack. What a moment: the sea stretching endlessly before me, the sky painted with late summer light, the ruins of the castle keeping quiet watch over the shore. I toasted the end of the Wall trek with fresh oysters, Basque and a briny sea-salt negroni, the perfect pairing of earth, sea, and spirit.
As dusk fell, I hired a driver and we drove back along Newcastle’s Quayside, its bridges glowing in the sunset. A final dinner at the welcoming Persian restaurant Dood rounded out the evening with perfectly charred lambcops, deep flavors, and reflection about the miles I had walked and the history I had glimpsed.
What a way to end the trip: from Carlisle to Wallsend, coast to coast, 73 miles total of walking history—and finding, along the way, not just the Wall but also new parts of myself.
#HadriansWall #WalkingTheWall #RomanBritain #Tynemouth #Wallsend #Newcastle #TravelMoments #EndOfEmpire #HistoryAndTravel #SeasideCelebration #AdventureContinues
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